Red-Headed Reflections: Day 8: Cruising the Rhine and Touring Marksburg Castle

Cruising the Upper Rhine

This was the only day of our trip when I had a migraine. I popped an Excedrin and committed myself to bravely endure the pain so as not to miss out on the gorgeous views of the castles of the Rhine. After breakfast, we moved up to the Sun Deck of our ship as our program director, James, gave us some history of the castles we were passing along the Upper Rhine River.

Relaxing on the sun deck watching the castles on the Rhine

Klopp Castle

A modified and rebuilt castle dating back to the 13th century, Klopp Castle occupies the site of a former Roman fortress. Used for collecting tolls from river traders. Destroyed during the 30 Years’ War, rebuilt in 1653. Destroyed again in 1689 during the War of the Palatine Succession, then blown up by its own forces in 1713 during the War of the Spanish Succession to prevent its use by the enemy. Rebuilt in the mid 1800’s. Today it houses a restaurant, Burg Klopp.

Klopp Castle in Bingen

Ehrenfels Castle

13th-century castle surrounded by ancient vineyards. A ruin today, it was largely destroyed by French troops during the Thirty Years’ War. The vineyards gave their name to the Ehrenfelser white grape variety grown in the region, which is used in some Riesling wines.

Ehrenfels Castle - note the really steep vineyard

The town of Assmannshausen am Rhein

Mouse Tower

This former tower built on an island served as a shipping signal station until 1974. It got its name from a local legend. Hatto II, used the tower as a platform to demand tribute from passing ships. During a famine in 974, the poor were starving, and he sold the grain he had stored up at such high prices that most could not afford it. When the peasants threatened to rebel, he told them to go to an empty barn and wait while he had food brought to them. Instead, he had the barn doors locked and set the barn on fire, burning the peasants to death. It was rumored that he commented, “Hear the mice squeak!” as they screamed. The mice, which had been living in the barn, fled the flames.

When Hatto II returned to his castle, the mice followed and began eating his food stores. Hatto II tried to escape to the tower in the river, hoping the mice couldn’t swim. Many of them successfully crossed. They ate through the tower’s doors and crawled up to the top floor, where they ate him alive.

Mäuseturm (Mouse Tower)

Rheinstein Castle

Originally built around 1323 by Matthias, the Count of Bucheck, Archbishop of Mainz, Rheinstein Castle was important for its strategic location. By the mid-1300’s it had already fallen into disrepair. It was rebuilt in the mid-1800’s by Prince Frederick of Prussia. He named it after the river (Rhein) and stein, the German word for “rock.” Many heads of state visited Rheinstein, including Queen Victoria and Empress Alexandra Feodorovna of Russia. The castle still has a working drawbridge, a portcullis, and ivy-covered battlements. Today it is a museum open to the public.

Rheinstein Castle is on a very steep cliff. If you look closely at the tower on the left, you can see the cage they used to hold prisoners.

Reichenstein Castle

Also called Falkenburg, Reichenstein Castle was a well-known location for robber barons. It was so notorious that in 1290, after destroying them, King Rudolf of Habsburg forbade the rebuilding of both Reichenstein Castle and Sooneck Castle. Today, it is a gorgeous neo-Gothic-style fortress with a museum, a high-end restaurant, and a hotel. It houses a collection of porcelain, furniture, and weapons spanning five centuries

Reichenstein Castle

The village of Trechtingshausen, near Castle Reichenstein

Sooneck Castle

Sooneck Castle was named for the nearby Soon Forest. Besieged and destroyed in 1282 by King Rudolph I, the king forbade anyone from rebuilding it, like Reichenstein Castle, to prevent its use by bandits and robber barons. It was eventually rebuilt and given to the Reitenaurs, a family supportive of the Habsburgs, to help stop Swiss expansion. It was destroyed again in 1689 by troops of King Louis XIV of France (the Sun King). In 1834 it was purchased and rebuilt by the Crown Prince of Prussia, Frederick William IV, as a hunting lodge. He had buildings added in the mid-1850s in romantic style. Unfortunately, it was never used as a hunting lodge due to family conflicts. You can visit Sooneck Castle by appointment these days.

Castle Sooneck is the site of the legend of the Lord and the crossbow. At that time, conflicts were generally resolved through challenge, and one arose between Siebold of Sooneck and Hans Veit of Furstenberg. Hans was known to be the best archer in the land, so Siebold, who was much bigger and stronger, challenged him to a swordfight. Hans was no match for Siebold’s strength, but Siebold did not kill Hans; he decided to torture him instead. Siebold had him taken to Castle Sooneck and had him blinded, taunting him that he was no longer the best archer. Hans lived as a captive for months until Siebold decided to humiliate him further. During a festival, Siebold had Hans brought to the hall and paraded in front of the crowd. “Let’s see how skillful you are now!” Siebold offered to free Hans if he could hit a goblet in midair with an arrow. The servants gave Hans a crossbow and an arrow. Siebold tossed the goblet and yelled, “Shoot!” Hans followed the sound and fired his arrow, hitting Siebold in the neck, killing him. The remaining revelers fled in fear, and Hans was free.

Sooneck Castle

Heimburg Castle

This 13th-century castle was destroyed under Louis XIV and fell into ruins, used as a source of stone for building. It was partially rebuilt in the 19th century. It has an imposing neo-Gothic style and square layout. It is now privately owned and not open to the public.

Heimburg Castle in the background of the town of Niederheimbach

Catholic Parish Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary below Castle Heimburg

Nollig Castle

Built around 1300 near the town of Lorch. The ruins were never a true castle but were part of fortifications for the town of Lorch am Rhein. The floor plan suggests that it may be built on the remains of a Roman fort. It is privately owned and not open to the public.

Nollig Castle above the village of Lorch

St. Martin's Church in Lorch, built beginning in 1270. The steeple was built on the remains of a Roman Watch Tower

The Parish Church of St. Bonifatius located in the village of Lorchhausen, Germany.

Stahleck Castle

It stands on a crag about 520 feet above sea level, and its name means “impregnable castle on a crag.” This 12th-century castle was repeatedly attacked during 17th-century wars. Afterward, it lay in ruins for 237 years. It was rebuilt in 1909 and now houses a youth hostel. It has a water-filled partial moat, unusual in Germany.

Fürstenberg Castle

The ruins of this castle lie on the hill of Fürstenberg above the site of the former village of Höingen. It was built sometime before 1295. Destroyed in 1303 by Count Everd of the Mark. Rebuilt in 1307 by Archbishop Henry. Destroyed in 1311 by Count Engelbert II of the Mark. Rebuilt in 1313 by Bishop Henry. Destroyed in 1343 by the counts of Arnsberg and of the Mark. Rebuilt in 1500. Destroyed during the Palatine War of Succession in 1689. Gradually fell into ruins. Privately owned today and not open to the public.

Pfalzgrafenstein and Gutenfels Castles

Known as “the Pfalz,” these two castles were part of a toll station. Originally built in 1326 by King Ludwig of Bavaria, who was threatened with excommunication by Pope John XXII for building it, as the Pope feared it would undermine their own toll collections at Stolzenfels Castle. Pfalzgrafenstein Castle was occupied by Spanish forces for 11 years during the Thirty Years’ War. The castle features an unusual pentagonal shape designed to withstand damage from river currents and floating ice. A baroque tower cap was added to Pfalzgrafenstein Castle in 1714, and today it is a public museum. Gutenfels Castle (historically known as Kaub Castle for the nearby town of Kaub) was ordered dismantled and destroyed by Napoleon in 1806. Weapons and artifacts were distributed to nearby castles, and the moat was filled in. The castle was rebuilt between 1889 and 1892 and is now a privately owned hotel.

To ensure tolls were paid, chains were stretched across the narrow river passage between the two castles. Ships could not go around due to dangerous waters downstream. If tolls were paid, the chains would be lowered. If not, the crew would be imprisoned in the dungeon, which was a wooden raft at the bottom of a well, until a ransom was paid.

Pfalzgrafenstein Castle in the foreground, Gutenfels in the background

Castle Gutenfels

Schönburg Castle

Built in 966, Schönburg Castle was burned down by French troops in 1689 and remained in ruins for 200 years until the Rhinelander family purchased it in the late 19th century and restored it. Today it is owned by the Hüttl family, who live there and operate a hotel and restaurant. It also features a tower museum.

Schönburg Castle, hotel, and restaurant. Visitors can walk the grounds while the restaurant is open.

The Church of Our Lady in Oberwesel, Germany. It was built in the 14th century.

The town of Oberwesel

Loreley Rock

Loreley Rock is a steep, slate rock, towering 430 feet above the Rhine. The section passing it is known for dangerous currents and rocks, and also for the strange way the rock echoes sound in that area. The name of the rock may come from ancient words for "murmur" and "rock," and it was named after the maiden who, according to legend, caused the deaths of many sailors there.

German author Clemens Brentano wrote a Ballad about Loreley (or Lorelei). In the poem, the beautiful Loreley (who may have been a mermaid/siren), betrayed by her sweetheart (who leaves her behind and never returns), is accused of bewitching men by singing and combing her long, golden hair. The sailors were so distracted by her beauty that the dangerous currents caused them to crash into the rocks, causing their deaths. She is arrested, but the bishop is so enchanted by her beauty that, rather than sentence her to death, the bishop consigns her to a nunnery. On the way thereto, accompanied by three knights, she comes to the Lorelei rock. She asks permission to climb it one last time to view the Rhine. She does so, and, thinking that she sees her love on a ship, leaps into the Rhine, falling to her death. The rock forever sings an echo of her name.

Loreley Rock. I don't see how anyone could jump from the top and reach the water without crashing along the rocks.

The statue of Loreley herself

Katz Castle

Built in the 14th century by Count William II of Katzenelnbogen (“Cat’s elbow”), Katz Castle was heavily damaged by Napoleon’s forces in 1806 and rebuilt in the Victorian era. It is popularly associated with the neighboring Castle Maus (“Castle Mouse”). Katz Castle is privately owned and not open to the public.

Katz Castle

The waterfront of St. Goar

Rheinfels Castle

High on a cliff above the Rhine perch the ruins of a mighty 13th-century fortress. At one point it was the largest castle between Koblenz and Mainz. It is the largest castle overlooking the Rhine, and the grounds were at one point five times as large as they are today. During a siege, it could hold up to 4500 people. The castle is home to a hotel and museum, and tourists can tour the various buildings and the mines below.

Rheinfels Castle

Maus Castle

Dubbed “Mouse Castle” by the counts of the larger Katz Castle, Castle Maus is one of the few along the Rhine that was never destroyed. It did fall into disrepair during the 16th and 17th centuries and by 1719 it was described as dilapidated and empty. It was purchased by architect Wilhelm Gärtner in 1900, and between 1900 and 1906 it was restored in great historical detail. The castle was damaged during World War II but has since been repaired. The castle includes an aviary with falcons, owls, and eagles and hosts flight demonstrations for visitors. Although it is privately owned, it can be rented for events.

Maus Castle

The yellow building is St. Sebastian Catholic Church in Ehrenthal, Germany, which is unusual because to get inside, you must go through a tavern named "Zur Klosterschenke" (the white building on the far left)

Liebenstein Castle and Sterrenberg Castle

These two castles are known as the "Hostile Brothers" castles.

Initially, it was just Sterrenberg Castle, owned at one point by Sir Werner of Sterrenberg and his two sons, Henry (the older) and Konrad. The boys were raised by their father after their mother died giving birth to Konrad. All was well until Sir Werner brought home Angela, a young girl whose mother had also died. Both boys fell in love with her, and she chose the elder Henry over his hot-headed younger brother, Konrad. Konrad kept up his pursuit of Angela anyway, and Sir Werner sought an opportunity to send his younger son off for a while to ensure a peaceful marriage between Angela and Henry. One day, Bernhard of Clairvaux showed up, looking for men to join the crusades. As the heir, Henry was not allowed to go, but Konrad, eager to seek adventure, volunteered. Before he left, Angela, fearing for his safety, asked him to promise to return. He promised he would if she would agree to keep her "heart free" for him. After that, her affections were for Konrad alone, which was devastating for Henry. The father gave up and built a second castle, Liebenstein Castle, next door for Konrad and Angela.

Konrad returned later, after his father's death, with his beautiful Greek wife, assuming that Angela had married Henry. The brothers fought next to their father's coffin, Henry furious over Konrad's betrayal of both him and Angela. Angela forced them to end their fighting, but she was devastated by their animosity toward each other, Konrad's unfaithfulness, and the loss of Sir Werner, and she left to become a nun. Each brother retreated to his castle. Henry eventually married someone, Konrad had the "Quarrel Wall" built between the two castles, and they would henceforth be known as the "Hostile Brothers' Castles."

Liebenstein Castle, built for Konrad, is now a family-run hotel and restaurant

Sterrenberg Castle, with the Quarrel Wall on the right. It is considered the oldest preserved castle along the Middle Rhine.


Wallfahrtskloster Bornhofen, a historic Franciscan pilgrimage monastery

Marksburg Castle

It was originally a stone keep, built in 1100, named Burg Braubach for the nearby town. It was expanded to a castle in 1117 to protect the town of Braubach and to collect taxes. Expanded to include batteries and bastions for cannons in the late 1400’s, helping it to survive the Thirty Years’ War without significant damage. In March of 1945, Castle Marksburg was shelled by American Forces but suffered only minor damage.

There is a legend surrounding Castle Marksburg. Once upon a time, a beautiful maiden named Elizabeth lived at the castle, the daughter of Noble Seigneur von Eppstein, Lord of the castle. She chose a young knight named Siegbert von Lahnstein to marry. Unfortunately, he was called away to fight in the war against Bohemia and lost his life in the Battle of Marchfeld. A young monk named Brother Mark, after his patron, the apostle Saint Mark, arrived at the castle to comfort Elizabeth.

A year later, a gentleman in black armor, Rochus von Andechs, arrived at the nearby Castle Lahneck, claiming to be a cousin of Siegbert. He demanded his cousin’s inheritance and asked for Elizabeth’s hand in marriage. Elizabeth and Brother Mark distrusted the black knight, for although he was rich and handsome with good manners, he lacked compassion. Elizabeth’s father had no problem with the match and urged his daughter to marry Rochus, and she reluctantly agreed.

The night before the wedding, Brother Mark went to the chapel to pray for Elizabeth’s happiness and saw a vision of Saint Mark. He warned Brother Mark that Rochus was evil. He gave Brother Mark a cross and told him to touch Rochus with it. The next day, when Elizabeth and Rochus arrived for the wedding, Mark held the cross against the chest of Rochus. The Earth opened and swallowed the black knight. The castle was renamed the Marksburg for Saint Mark.

Our afternoon plans include a tour of this beautiful, medieval castle.

Marksburg Castle

St. Bartholomew Church in Kamp-Bornhofen

Lahneck Castle

Lahneck Castle was Built in 1226 by the Archbishop of Mainz, Siegfried III of Eppstein. According to legend, after the Knights Templar were ordered to disband by Pope Clement V in 1312, the last 12 took refuge in Lahneck Castle and died fighting the forces of the Archbishop of Mainz, Peter of Aspelt. The castle was heavily damaged during the Thirty Years’ War, then again in 1662, and by 1688 it was in ruins. In 1860 it was finally restored to its original state. The castle is owned by the family of Imperial Admiral Robert Mischke and is open to the public for tours.

Castle Lahneck is said to be haunted by the ghost of a young Scottish girl named Idilia Dubb who visited in 1851. She climbed the wooden stairwell to the top of the keep, but the stairwell collapsed, trapping her. She kept a diary of her last few days, including her hope for a rescue which would never come. Her skeleton and diary were found in 1860 by workers restoring the stairwell. The last sentence of her diary read:

“All I know is that there is no hope for me. My death is certain. Father in heaven, have mercy on my soul.”

Her ghost still wanders the castle halls begging for help.

From https://great-castles.com/lahneckghost.html

This is the Martinsburg Castle, which was used to collect tolls for Lahneck Castle

Some sort of water rescue was taking place

Around this time on our cruise, a water rescue was underway. We aren't sure quite what happened, but there was a helicopter and several rescue vehicles. Fellow passengers guessed a boat had run up on some rocks or a shallow area.

Stolzenfels Castle

Originally a fortress used to collect tolls along the Rhine, it was occupied by French and Swedish troops in the Thirty Years’ War, and destroyed in 1689 by the French during the Nine Years’ War. It was given to Crown Prince Frederick William IV of Prussia in 1823. He had it rebuilt as a palace in the Gothic Revival style, completed in 1850. The castle is open for public tours.

Stolzenfels Castle

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

The northernmost point of the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, the Fortress lies at the intersection of the Mosel and Rhine Rivers. The hill on which the fortress stands was originally settled around 4000 BC, with settlements built in the 10th/9th century BC. The first castle was built there around 1000 AD and was later strengthened into a fortress in the 16th century. The fortress withstood several sieges but eventually was blown up by the French in 1801 to prevent the enemy from taking over. It was rebuilt by the French in the early 1800s and was occupied by the United States Army in 1919. Since then, the fortress has been used for storing archives, as a refugee camp, and later as housing. Today, it is open to visitors and includes a restaurant and a youth hostel.

For the afternoon, we signed up for a walking tour of Marksburg Castle in Koblenz. Our guide was a quiet Frenchman named Phillipe or Pierre; I honestly can't remember which. We traveled by bus to the town of Braubach.

Passing by Koblenz and the back of Stolzenfels Castle on our way

Our tour of Marksburg Castle took us back nearly 1,000 years. Perched 270 feet above the town of Braubach, the castle is 925 years old and has been continuously inhabited for more than 700 years.

Marksburg is one of only two castles along the Upper Middle Rhine that was never destroyed, and it is the only one that has never fallen into disrepair. Unlike many castles, Marksburg was built as a military fortification rather than a royal residence. For that reason, it is functional rather than lavish. The windows are small to make it more difficult for invaders to enter, and the castle is protected by a series of gates and drawbridges.

The drive up to the castle is a bit tricky as the roads are narrow. The bus dropped us outside the 4 gates, and we walked up some steep walkways to get to the castle entrance.

The Arrow Slit gate is the third gate, and the small window was used to throw rocks if invaders made it that far.

Our guide (let's just say, Phillippe) left us in the hands of our guide who works for the German Castle Society. Much of the castle is not available for touring because it is either used for offices or too dangerous to walk through. We would be able to tour many of the rooms, however, that were recreated just as they had been during the Middle Ages.

We began by climbing the Knights' (or Riders') Staircase, which is made of slate. The steps are uneven because they were carved by hand, and the rough surface also helped keep horses from slipping. It does make it a bit trickier for people to walk up/ Along the staircase are the crests of all the families who have occupied Marksburg over the centuries.

The crests or coat of arms for all the families who have lived in Castle Marksburg

The very uneven slate steps

The wine cellar reminded us that wine was the traditional drink of the Rhineland. It contained less alcohol than today's beer and, perhaps more importantly, was safer to drink than the available water.

It's healthier than water

An 18th-century wine press

The kitchen is located on the ground floor and would have been used only by the servants. It is furnished as it would have been in the Middle Ages, complete with meat hanging from the ceiling to keep it out of reach of rodents.

The ice block/cold storage area on the left, the butcher's block in the center.
You can also see cooking utensils hung in the background.

A large open hearth fireplace used for both heating and cooking.

The bedroom contains a small four-poster bed, a cradle, and a window alcove with built-in seating. The beds are noticeably shorter than ours. While people were generally shorter, they also slept in a partially upright position because lying flat was associated with death on the battlefield. This was one of the few rooms in the castle that had a stove for heat.

The seating/reading area near the bedroom window

The bed with a cradle nearby

Bill hangs out next to a medieval tapestry

The Nobleman's Living Quarters even has a chess game ready to play

The Great Hall served as both the dining room and the gathering place for entertainment and important events. One interesting detail was that the toilet was located right in the dining room. It was apparently common for someone using it during a meal to leave the door open so they could continue participating in the conversation. The toilet even had an external lock to prevent intruders from climbing up through it.

Our guide stands in front of the privy in the dining room

The chapel dates to the 14th century and has beautifully painted walls and ceilings. It is dedicated to Saint Mark, the protector of the castle and the central figure in a local legend.

14th-century frescoes on the wall of the chapel

The medallion in the center of the chapel shows the coat of arms of the city of Cologne

The chapel is surprisingly small, but it was generally only used by the nobles for prayer

We also climbed through a very narrow stairwell that was intentionally designed to slow attackers. The confined space limited how easily an intruder could swing a sword or move while wearing armor.

The armory contains more than 2,000 weapons from the period. Although a mace is on display, our guide explained that maces were not commonly used because they were expensive to make and not particularly practical.

The armory includes all types of weapons used in combat

Traditional weapons used by foot soldiers

The Gimbel Collection of Armor includes twelve life-sized figures dressed in historically accurate armor dating from 1880 or earlier. Some of the suits are original, while others are carefully crafted reproductions.

Traditional Greek armor from 600 to 400 BC, a Celtic warrior from the Iron Age, a Roman Legionnaire, and a Merovingian warrior from 500-700 AD.

A Templar knight, a 14th-century English knight, an early 15th-century knight (with the red and yellow horns), the armor of the Knight Earl of Warwick from 1450, 15th-century German armor with a wide-brimmed hat and crossbow

A 13th-century knight wearing the coat of arms for the County of Württemberg

Late 15th-century Gothic Plate armor, and a 17th-century musketier with his musket

Like many medieval castles, Marksburg has both a dungeon and a torture chamber. The torture devices are displayed in what was once the stable. Some were designed to inflict pain, while others were intended simply to humiliate the wearer.

The Marksburg dungeon, complete with a stockade . . .

. . . and a wooden chair with spikes

A torture rack. The artwork above is titled The Brazen Bull and depicts a method of torture where the victim is placed in a hollow brass statue and roasted alive.

The "Great Battery" houses the cannons that defended both the castle and the nearby town. Every cannon points toward the Rhine River, and their cannonballs could easily reach the opposite bank. Our guide told us that, statistically, more people were killed by cannons exploding than by enemy cannon fire.

Cannons, probably more dangerous for the people using them

Perfect view of the Rhine

The upper section of the castle is surrounded by gardens containing more than 150 different varieties of plants. They were grown not only for food but also for medicinal purposes.

Water lilies, Rosemary, Giant Butterbur

Horseradish, French tarragon, and roses

Peppermint, catnip, Elacampane (used for coughs), Russian tarragon

Probably Lady's mantle, sweet bay, hostas, and several fruit trees

Comfrey, cardoon, devil's bit, pimpinella

Gorgeous views of the Rhine

The gift shop had some amazing original books and documents and the instructions said absolutely no photos.

I definitely did not take a photo of an original Bible interpretation by Martin Luther from 1556.

And Bill did not take a photo of letters and correspondence from Martin Luther (1524-1541)

It was raining as we were leaving, and I was a bit nervous about slipping on the ramps, but we made it safely to the bus and headed back to the ship.

We drove back through Bruback

Right next to where we were docked was the German Corner, where the Moselle and Rhine Rivers meet, and a huge monument to Kaiser Wilhelm built in 1897. It is 37 meters tall (around 120 feet).

German Corner (Deutsches Eck)

Kaiser Wilhelm I Monument

You can catch a gondola across the river to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

Dinner was fantastic that evening! We sat with Margie and her husband Don, and her sister-in-law Jody and her husband Rob. Jody worked for years as a special ed teacher's aide, and shared some of her stories with us. We enjoyed Chateaubriand, which was tender and delicious.